All posts filed under: Holland

Vinkeles

Keizersgracht 384 1016 GB Amsterdam Tel +31(0)20 530 2010 1 Michelin star since 2009 Gault&Millau 18 7th Visit:  2nd Dinner at the Chef’s Table : Saturday 4th March 2017 (17.5/20)  €€€€€ You can eat pretty well in my adopted town of Amsterdam… which is fortunate given eating is one of the few things I really excel at. Leaving your home to live somewhere new is never easy, and when food is as important to you as it is to me, leaving a city which has as world-class a food scene as London can be verging on terrifying. But I landed firmly on two feet here all those years ago; Amsterdam definitely knows how to eat well. I’ve actually been coming to The Dylan hotel for much longer than the 6 years I’ve been frequenting its flagship restaurant, given I often stayed here when I was in town on business travel. When we got married at the Museum van Loon a few blocks down the same canal, we spent our wedding night at The Dylan. So it’s …

Pork with fragrant rose rub

This is a great looking dish that can be made without much fuss, a lot of the items being well suited to pre-preparation. The combination fragrant elements of rose and red peppercorn to classic pairings for pork like sage and mustard works really well, adding another dimension to the already tried and tested. I favour a sous vide for this kind of cooking, especially as pork loin is a supremely challenging thing to cook right if you aren’t able to hold the temperature constant. It is however possible to cook this same dish just frying  the pork loin first or throwing in the oven for 20 mins before applying the rub. Enjoy! Ingredients: (Serves 2) 1 pork loin (around 4-500 g) Broccoli stem 2 medium floury potatoes Dijon mustard Sauce: Red wine, bay leaf, carrot, onion, Madeira, Pedro Jimenez Rub: Dried rose petals, red pepper corns, sage Method: 1. Season the pork loin liberally and place with a knob of butter into a food-safe ziplock bag. Place in the sous vide at 65c/149 f for 1.5 …

Izakaya

(14/20) Overly extensive menu promises a lot and (expensively) delivers much less.

Seated in a boutique hotel towards the lower end of the once-painfully-hip-now-painfully-expensive Amsterdam neighbourhood of the Pijp, Izakaya serves up small plates of Japanese/South American fusion to tourists and (wealthy) locals, alongside cocktails and live DJs.

Chicken ballotine with kale 

Once the skin is crisped up, remove and keep for later. Not eating it immediately is the most technically challenging part of this whole dish” This is the easiest and (almost) foolproof way to make a stuffed leg of chicken (or ballotine), which is both delicious and beautiful. Ingredients 1 whole chicken, preferably free range Carrot, onion, garlic, bay for the stock A few stalks of kale Pumpkin (or any root veg) Method Always start with a whole bird. Using the entire chicken is not only far more economical than buying those sorry plastic-wrapped spare parts from the supermarket, but also allows for no wastage, either in meat or in flavour. You can use everything; Making multiple meals out of one carcass, and allowing the appropriate cooking techniques for each part. There is a reason that roast chicken is so technically challenging to do well – each type of meat on the bird cooks best at radically different temperatures and for  different times. And of course the bones make the most wonderful stock, which forms …

Bolenius

Amsterdam, The Netherlands 1 Michelin Star since 2017 2nd visit : 20th Jan 17 Good, pleasantly quirky food with strong Dutch influence and focus on local vegetables (16/20) Bolenius is a small but perfectly formed restaurant located in the financial district of Amsterdam south, where it is heaving with suits during the week, but practically gave us the place to ourselves when we visited for lunch on Saturday. My first visit was some years ago and, rather unsurprising, was for a business lunch. I initially recalled the meal fondly (if not terribly precisely given the quantity of wine), but had since then totally forgotten about the place. That was until December of course when it popped-up as one of Amsterdam’s 3 new Michelin-starred kitchens. I know the other two awardees well and must admit that I, much like some other local diners, was a bit surprised by the choices (but that’s a whole different story), so was very quite intrigued to come back. The dining room itself is full of light and pleasantly unfussy, sitting on painted concrete floors …

Duck (or not) with Carrots

A colourful and delicious dish which can easily be adjusted for vegetarians without losing any of the fun Really this is more about the carrot rather than the duck so, like much of my cooking (which I often need to adapt for my vegetarian wife), it works perfectly well either way just by adjusting quantities of pasta, substituting goats cheese for the protein, and of course adding a flower! The underlying sweet and buttery carrot puree gives a solid base on which the toasted crunch of hazelnut and the beetroot tuile sit, with sharpness from the pickled ribbons of carrot, earthiness from the burnt leek, and rich umami from the duck (or cheese if substituting). This is the first time I’ve tried to make this little biscuit, which is really for decoration as much as anything else, but is perfectly delicious too! Ingredients (Meaty/Vegetarian) As usual I forgo exact quantities – use what feels right to you, have fun, and see what happens! Duck breast / Fresh goats cheese Carrots Leak Beetroot, flour and oil …

De Librije

Zwolle, The Netherlands 3 Michelin stars since 2004 38 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants 3rd Visit: Lunch Saturday 14th Jan 2017 Restaurants rarely get better than this : 19.5/20 Monkfish, fermented peppers and aubergine It was with some considerable joy that we returned, almost exactly a year after our last visit, to the temple of modern Dutch gastronomy in Zwolle, Northern Holland. The restaurant is housed in an impressive 18th century pile, an old prison building, and cohabits the space with its own boutique hotel. Many guest who book for dinner take the option to roll happily up the stairs into the luxurious accommodation above, or indeed as we had done last year, make a whole glorious weekend of it, enjoying the heady heights of dinner, breakfast and lunch with 3 Michelin stars. This is truly a labour of love; The celebrated power-couple of Dutch fine dining, Jonnie and Thérèsa Boer, still work every day in the restaurant which they founded together some 20 years ago and which rightfully commands an almost mythical status in Dutch …